Tool Buyer's Checklist: Pressure Washer Startup, Makita Air Compressor & Nut Runner, XLT Linemen's Pliers, and Screw Anchors in Wood

Every few months the same set of questions lands in my inbox. They look random, but they're not. They all come down to one thing: "What should we actually buy, and how do we not waste the budget?"

I'm the procurement manager for a 40-person electrical contractor. I've managed our tool and repair budget (around $120,000 annually) for six years, tracked every invoice in our cost system, and ordered more than a few line items that turned out to be mistakes. It took me about four years and 150 orders to understand that the cheapest option almost always costs more somewhere else. Sometimes it's repair time. Sometimes it's delivery. Sometimes it's just the look on a foreman's face when the tool stops working.

Here's the checklist I use when someone asks about starting a pressure washer, buying a Makita air compressor, a "Makita nut runner," XLT round nose linemen's pliers, or screw anchors in wood.

How to Start a Pressure Washer Without Creating a Repair Ticket

Pressure washer problems are usually operator problems. I've paid for enough pump repairs to know. Actually, I've paid for three; the last one cost $168—no, $185 with the diagnostic fee. I had to check the file. That's a tool budget black hole.

Here's the startup checklist I put on every new machine:

1. Put it on level ground. A slope starves the oil pump and makes pull-start engines hard to start.
2. Check the oil. If it's a gas model, check the dipstick before the first start after the off-season.
3. Check the fuel. Old gasoline is the biggest no-start cause. If the fuel is more than 30 days old, drain it.
4. Connect and open the water supply. Then squeeze the gun trigger with no nozzle attached to remove air.
5. Pull-start with the choke set. Let it warm up before shifting to high pressure.
6. Run the pump for a few seconds without the trigger to normalize pressure. (mental note: doing this wrong is what killed our first pump)

For Makita electric or cordless pressure washers, skip the oil and fuel checks, but don't skip the water supply step. Running a pressure washer dry is the fastest way to make a $200 problem out of a $15 morning.

Common mistakes: leaving a nozzle on when you pull the trigger, and turning the unit on before the water is flowing. That sounds basic, but I've seen it happen three times.

Buying a Makita Air Compressor: The Checklist the Spec Sheet Won't Give You

When someone asks for "a Makita air compressor," the useful follow-up is: what will it do? I've seen crews buy more compressor than they need because they didn't check the CFM at the pressure they use. If you search "air compressor makita," you'll see a mix of portable and wheeled units. That mix is exactly why the buying decision starts with your application, not the photo.

First, know your duty. Trim nailers run okay on modest compressors. A DA sander or a sandblaster is a different planet. Get the CFM requirement for the tools you'll run before you look at price.

Second, calculate total cost, not purchase price. A cheaper compressor might need oil changes, filters, and replacement sooner. A slightly more expensive unit with better service access can save more than the price difference.

When I compared two quotes side by side last year—one with "free shipping," one without—the free-shipping option actually cost us $480 more after freight insurance and the liftgate fee. That's the kind of hidden cost that doesn't show up in an email subject line.

Third, verify parts availability. If a part has to come by freight, you're paying more than the USPS rate. For reference, a First-Class Mail large envelope starts at $1.50 under USPS pricing effective January 2025 (usps.com), but a compressor pump doesn't fit in an envelope. Ask about the authorized service network before you sign.

Fourth, treat "never needs maintenance" as marketing, not data. Per FTC guidelines (ftc.gov), advertising claims have to be truthful and substantiated. If someone says "lifetime" and can't explain what that covers, keep walking.

If you're already running Makita tools and want a compressor on the same color trailer, that's fine. But no one gives you a discount for matching colors. The compressor earns its place by CFM and reliability.

"Makita Nut Runner" Is Usually Not What You Need

Here's a phrase that trips up buyers. A "nut runner" in the industrial world is a tool designed to tighten nuts to a controlled torque. On a construction crew, what most people actually need is a cordless impact wrench or a torque wrench. When you search "Makita nut runner," the search engine shows you Makita's high-torque impact wrenches, which are not the same thing.

Before you add one to the cart:

• Name the fastener. Is it M10, M14, or big equipment hardware? That tells you the torque range.
• Decide whether you need controlled torque. If you're torquing wheel nuts, you need a calibrated torque wrench or an impact wrench with torque settings, not an assembly nut runner.
• Check the battery platform. If you're already on Makita 18V LXT, a bare tool keeps the cost down. If not, a kit becomes a new system investment—count that in the total cost.
• Budget for impact-rated sockets. I've seen $60 sockets fail because someone bought the wrong grade. That failure cost more time, and the repair was more than the savings on the socket.

From my perspective, the nut runner lesson is broader: understand the job before you let a search term define the purchase. The cheapest tool is not the one that fits the budget; it's the one that fits the task.

XLT Round Nose Linemen's Pliers: Stock One, Not Six

Now for the item that isn't Makita at all. XLT round nose linemen's pliers are electrician's tools. The round-nose variation lets you make tight wire loops without nicking the copper. They're useful, but they're not an every-crew, every-bag item.

I almost ordered six pairs because the name sounded "pro." The project manager stopped me. We ordered one pair, tested it for two weeks, and now it lives in the shared cart. That test saved us money (I don't remember the exact price—maybe $45 each? I'd have to look) and a lot of shelf space.

If you're supplying a crew, ask these questions first:

• How often does someone actually bend a wire loop? If it's twice a week, one pair per crew is enough.
• Do your people need a hammering surface and a wire cutter on the same tool? A traditional linemen's plier might serve better.
• Is this a stated requirement or a nice-to-have? Nice-to-have tools buy themselves only if they get used.

That's not an anti-XLT stance. It's a "buy for frequency" stance. The surprise was never the pliers' quality. The surprise was how much money sits in tool bags that never come out.

Should I Use Screw Anchors in Wood? Usually Not

People ask me, "Should I use screw anchors in wood?" and my answer is usually no.

If the wood is solid, drill a pilot hole and drive a wood screw. That gives you better grip than an anchor. A plastic anchor is designed for hollow materials, masonry, or drywall—not solid wood. Putting one in wood can split the framing or strip out the hole, leaving you worse off.

When to ignore that rule? If you have a stripped-out hole, do not fix it by wedging a bigger anchor into the same spot. Instead, glue a hardwood dowel into the hole, let the glue cure, cut it flush, and re-drill a pilot hole. That takes more time, but it's the only fix I trust for a loaded shelf or a door hinge.

If you're fastening to particle board, MDF, or thin facade material, an appropriate anchor may be the right answer. But for a stud, joist, or plywood, use wood screws and save the anchors.

For structural connections, follow the engineer or fastener manufacturer's specification. An anchor is not a substitute for a rated structural screw. The cost of "making it work" rarely shows up on a receipt, but it shows up somewhere.

The Cost-Cutter's Bottom Line

The pattern in all six questions is the same: start with the task, then do the math. It took me years and enough bad orders to learn that. The cheapest bid, the fanciest name, or the newest search term doesn't reduce your total cost. A tool that fits the job and gets used pays for itself. A tool that doesn't—no matter how good the reviews—is just inventory.

And if you're about to order something unfamiliar, do what we do: buy one, test it, then decide. Your budget will thank you.