Makita Tool Sets for a Crew: 7 Checks From a Procurement Manager
Posted on 2026-09-08 by Maren Jorgensen
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The seven checks before a Makita order
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1. Start with the 12-month work list, not the tool flyer
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2. Settle the battery plan before you compare prices
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3. Buy a Makita tool set only when the contents match the routes
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4. Decide how the circular saw will be used—and whether a worm-drive style earns its weight
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5. Plan repair parts and accessories on day one
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6. Buy the hand tools before you need them—the washing machine lesson
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7. Do a 12-month audit before the next order
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1. Start with the 12-month work list, not the tool flyer
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Where I still have to watch myself
For the past six years, I've been the procurement manager at a 45-person facilities maintenance company. Our crews do door hardware, fire-rated repairs, bathroom remodels, appliance swaps, and enough light plumbing that the tool budget I manage—about $60,000 a year—covers a lot more than drills. It took me a while to learn that a tool request is not a purchasing decision. It's the start of a conversation.
If you're in charge of buying Makita 18V tools for a crew rather than for yourself, the conversation usually needs to go through seven checks. I use them before every order that involves more than one bare tool. I've skipped each one at least once and paid for it on the next invoice.
The seven checks before a Makita order
1. Start with the 12-month work list, not the tool flyer
Before I open a catalog, I ask what work is actually scheduled over the next 12 months. 'We need a few drills' is not a spec. A drill that spends its life driving screws into wood is different from one that has to make holes in masonry twice a week. Our crews standardized around the Makita 18V LXT system because one battery platform covers most of what a general repair crew does in a week: drilling, driving, cutting, grinding, fastening.
I don't have hard data on how many tool requests get dropped at this step, but from the last few years I can tell you it's more than a few. Asking the crew to show me the work behind the request has caught more budget problems than any spreadsheet I've ever built. The job list is a better salesperson than the spec sheet.
2. Settle the battery plan before you compare prices
The first thing to settle is batteries, because by the time a tool is two years old, the batteries will have cost as much as the tool. Standardize on one voltage family—for us, that's Makita 18V LXT—and think through the amp-hour sizes you actually need. A small battery keeps a drill light and easy on a ladder. A higher-capacity battery is what you want when the saw is doing the work.
I made the classic mistake early on: I treated batteries as extras rather than as part of the purchase. Combo kits come with batteries, and after two or three kit orders we had a drawer of small batteries while the crew complained about tools fading halfway through a stack of plywood. Now we decide the battery sizes and the number of chargers before we decide which tools to buy. One charger per truck, not one charger per tool.
When a manufacturer says a charger gets a battery to full in a certain number of minutes, I ask what battery and what test method. The FTC's advertising guidance says performance claims should be substantiated (ftc.gov). In practice, that means I can ask for the test procedure, and the sales reps who can produce it are usually the ones who have actually read the manual.
3. Buy a Makita tool set only when the contents match the routes
There are good reasons to order a Makita tool set for a new van. The per-tool price is often lower than buying separately, the batteries and charger arrive in one shipment, and the cases take less space in the shop. But the phrase 'Makita tools set' shows up on purchase orders a little too easily. A set is only a bargain if the tools inside have jobs.
The question isn't, 'How many tools are in the bundle?' It's, 'How many of those tools will actually be checked out in year two?' We bought a set years ago that included a jigsaw. It left the building twice in eighteen months. The rest of the time it sat in a case, adding weight to the invoice and nothing to the work. Now, before any set order, each tool in the box has to have a named user and a named job. If one tool doesn't, we buy the rest as bare tools and pull batteries from our stock.
4. Decide how the circular saw will be used—and whether a worm-drive style earns its weight
Few decisions cause more arguments in our shop than the circular saw. A sidewinder keeps the motor on the side of the blade; it's lighter and easier to carry up a ladder. A worm-drive circular saw runs the motor front to back and drives the blade through worm gears, which gives it a different balance and more torque under load. If a crew mostly cuts framing lumber and plywood on sawhorses, a sidewinder is the lower total cost. If they spend hours breaking down engineered lumber or doing rough carpentry, a worm-drive style saw earns its extra weight.
For a cordless version, that usually means moving up to Makita's 36V (18V x 2) rear-handle saw in the worm-drive layout, and that changes the budget conversation because the saw draws from two batteries at once. We don't put one on every truck. We put one on the truck that actually does the heavy cutting.
5. Plan repair parts and accessories on day one
Nobody plans a repair when they're planning a purchase, which is exactly why it needs to be part of the plan. When a high-use drill goes down, the real cost isn't the repair ticket—it's the tech standing next to a half-finished job. Sending a tool to a service center and waiting three weeks is sometimes cheaper than replacing it, but only if you know the lead time going in.
Now, before we order a new model, I ask the dealer for the part numbers of the common repair parts: trigger switches, chucks, gear housings, the kind of parts that fail after a tool has been dropped one too many times. We don't hoard parts for an $80 tool. For the tools that run every day, we want to know exactly what's available and how long it takes to get it. The same goes for accessories like blades and guides. A tool that sits waiting for a part is just an expensive paperweight.
6. Buy the hand tools before you need them—the washing machine lesson
The order that taught me this one came after a flood in an apartment building we service. Water from a backed-up laundry drain ended up on a kitchen ceiling two floors down. The source was a failed check valve in the washing-machine drain setup. If you've ever asked, 'What is a washing machine check valve?'—it's a one-way valve that lets water leave the washer during the drain cycle and closes if water from the shared drain tries to push back into the machine. When the rubber part inside it fails, you get water where it doesn't belong.
The replacement part was cheap. Getting to it was not. The drain connection had been over-tightened by whoever installed the washer, and the fitting was seized. Our tech had a van full of Makita power tools, but that didn't help. Removing a corroded water fitting without crushing it is a job for a proper pump pliers, not for a cordless drill. The senior plumber on the contract sent me a note that day: get two of the Knipex Cobra pump pliers, 87 02 250, the 10-inch model.
Every van now carries one. Water-side problems show up without warning: supply stops, drain valves, check valves. A maintenance crew that only has power tools and batteries can't finish an appliance or plumbing call. The hand tools are not an afterthought.
7. Do a 12-month audit before the next order
Every power tool we buy gets tagged with a purchase date, model number, serial number, and van code in our cost tracking spreadsheet. Once a year, I spend half a day going through the repair history. That's where the real lessons show up.
A few years ago, a cheaper model looked like a smart buy until the repair line told a different story. The labor hours and downtime made it more expensive than the tool we almost bought instead. That's the total cost conversation, and it only works if you actually track the data. I built a simple TCO calculator after getting burned by a low quote twice, and it has saved us more than the spreadsheet cost to build. Take this with a grain of salt because our sample sizes are small, but when a model shows a pattern—three failures in one crew in sixteen months—we don't order more of it.
Where I still have to watch myself
The checklist catches the obvious mistakes. The quieter ones are easier to miss.
One is using last year's order as this year's plan. A crew changes, a contract changes, and suddenly you're buying the same tools for work that doesn't exist anymore. I try to treat every annual tool order as a new question, not a repeat invoice.
The other is confusing novelty with improvement. In 2020, a brushed motor on a budget 18V tool was a normal way to save money. By 2026, we buy brushless for anything that runs more than a few minutes a day, and we've started using the 40V line for high-draw work. Five years ago, one 18V platform for a whole maintenance crew wasn't the obvious call. Now it is. The fundamentals haven't changed—match the tool to the work and count the full cost—but the execution around those fundamentals keeps getting better.
None of these checks will keep a tool from breaking. What they do is make sure the next order already knows what the tool has to do, who will use it, and what it will really cost over its life.
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